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Meher Castelino

It's amazing how, every season, fashion takes on different hues in the West. Not all trends, though, are worth following. Like grey, the shade for the coming '98 season, which has already ruled the ramp all winter. Close on its heels are black and white. Wonder where that leaves the vibrant tones? Sadly, on the discount racks of stores all over Europe. So clothes and shoes in yellow, blue, green, pink and magenta can be grabbed for a song. The reason -- timeless clothes are in and grey is as versatile as black or white.

But will grey click in India?

Doesn't seem like it, since the Indians are on their own colourful trip. What with 50 years of freedom and all that, the favourite trio colour is undoubtedly saffron, white and green worn together or separately. Designers are burning the midnight oil trying to work out contemporary and unconventional creations with these colours. Here's hoping the garments won't end up looking like the Indian flag.

With all that talk of the tricolour, can khadi be far behind? It's a pity this lovely handspun fabric only gets a boost around Bapu's birthday or during free India's golden jubilee celebrations. Or when designers like Ritu Kumar, Kamal Wadkar or Devika Bhojwaniput their mark on it. Otherwise, it lies neglected on the shelves of khadi emporiums in the form of dhotis and kurtas. Suddenly, though, designers have discovered khadi's elegant qualities and are churning out creations overnight. It's chic to wear khadi, what with patriotic fervor and all that. Who ever said fashion was flippant?

The West just can't have enough of the East and Indian designers are blitzing the world with their creations. At The Collection Premier, the biggest women's wear high fashion garment fair held in Dusseldorf, Germany, this month, the look was very Indian as European designers tried their hand at creating oriental chic. They may not have turned into slaves of Indian labels, but they are definitely getting inspired. In fact, the summer of '98 will see versions of the Jodhpuri jacket, dhoti, choli, lungi, kurta, churidar and ghagra on Western shelves. Add to that, turbans, dupattas, scarves and nose rings for accessories and you'll see a lot of demure maidens gliding down Oxford Street or the Champs Elysee next summer.

Export-import can, at times, be the name of the fashion game. But when both export and import involve the same product, it hints at an unusual story.

Indian jewellery designer Gillian Hollenstein, who lives in Switzerland, markets her creations in Europe and the Far and Middle East under the label, Gillian Designs. Now that she's woken up to the potential of India as a market, she's launched her European styles at Melange, Bombay, under the label Gillian Hollenstein for Melange.

The jewellery is unconventional, kooky and exclusive 14 carat gold 'n' diamond stuff. Hollenstein's designs have such limited numbers; you might be the only one owning her creations. Not a bad way to stand out in a crowd!

Time, in India, reached a standstill, as the hottest watches from the West made their appearance in the Indian market. Tiffany, Concord, Corium, Arpels, Cartier, Breguet, Chopard, Piaget -- they are all here. But it's the prices that require a second, third and even fourth look. A Concord costs Rs 27.4 million, Breguet Rs 1 million, Piaget Rs 200,000, Arpels Rs 1.5 million, Cartier Rs 600,000, Chopard US $ 25 million. Tags like these definitely made the Indian socialite's heart skip a beat or two. Are they really worth it? After all, a good old HMT or Titan (they are the hottest sellers in Europe) will tell the same time as these fancy labels.