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April 10, 2001

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The Rediff Special/ Sheela Bhatt

'Clinton ko sab kuch chalta hai'

If you put together Hemant Oberoi and the Taj Mahal hotel in Bombay, you can only come to one conclusion -- and it will be palate-tickling! Last week, though, the duo excelled themselves. Their inspiration? The former president of the United States of America, William Jefferson Clinton.

The 47-year-old executive chef spoke exclusively to rediff.com about his famous guest, the exclusive menu and the imported mushrooms...

But did these preparations meet Clinton's approval?

The last time President Clinton was here, everyone enjoyed the north Indian cuisine he was served. This time, I wanted to offer him something different. Since I knew he would be visiting Gujarat, I avoided the dhoklas and khandvis. He would also be visiting Jaipur, Delhi and Calcutta, so I did not want to offer him the kind of food he would get there.

Before finalising the menu, though, we wanted to finetune our knowledge about his food tastes. His office was quite helpful; they told us he was quite fond of Indian breads and that he enjoys chicken, grilled items, chicken tikka and tikka masala. He also likes beans and spinach.

We also got in touch with the Bombay Club in Washington and the Dewan (which was earlier known as Bukhara Grill) in New York; he is a regular at both these restaurants. After talking to them -- some of the guys there are former colleagues -- we decided we would stick to the local flavour.

He arrived late in the evening on August 5 and checked into the Presidential Suite. The suite was well-stocked with platters of cheese, chocolates, canapes, fresh fruit and cookies. The special Ahmedabad-Bombay flight served kebabs, samosas and chicken tikkas, so I guess he was not hungry. He ordered only black coffee and nibbled from the platters.

"The next morning's breakfast included scrambled eggs, bacon, fresh orange juice, coffee, Danish pastries and specially prepared croissants. "I enjoyed the breakfast," he complimented us later. "The bacon was done to suit my taste. I really like the food here." Then, he left to meet Mr Sharad Pawar. At 11.45 am, he arrived at Sea Wind, the Ambani home. According the initial plan, the Ambanis were to host him at the Chambers (in the Taj), but they changed their mind the previous day.

The menu, of course, was carefully planned -- we wanted to make sure a variety of aromas would flavour the table. We had even created 32 silk-scroll golden-lettered menu cards that were kept to the right of each guest. Each cover was emblazoned 'Lunch hosted by the Ambanis in honour of President William Jefferson Clinton. April 6, 2001.'

The Ambanis have a resourceful kitchen. But, since we were to serve a variety of piping-hot items to the guests simultaneously, we brought everything -- including burners and servers -- from the Taj kitchen. The food was prepared between 7.30 and 10.30 am.

The Ambanis are vegetarians and are fond of south Indian food, so the food was reflective of Hyderabad and Kerala. The biryani was made in the style typical to Tamil Nadu.

We wanted the food's taste and colour to match individual palates. The lunch began with a variety of starters, which were served in Christopher's china. There were four varieties of basket-shaped fried potatoes, stuffed with masala paste and finely-cut almonds. Imported shitake mushrooms from Holland were marinated with chatpata masalas and layered into tiny pita breads. There were potli samosas and pani puris, stuffed with paneer bhurji, tamarind chutney, curd and sev. And, of course, Papadi Chaat.

The starter course was followed by medium-spicy drumstick soup served with croissants, flavoured with ginger and spring onions to give it a uniquely Indian taste. We also offered Fruit Chaat Sorbet. The main course -- highlighting five Indian vegetables -- was served in the Ambanis' silver dinnerware.

Vegetable Allepey Curry is a Kerala speciality, made with coconut milk and vegetables. Then there was Paneer Pepper Fry, cottage cheese cubes seasoned with onions and pepper. Aloo Mirch Ka Salan, a mildly spiced peanut-based gravy with baby potatoes. Beans Poryal -- a dry but delicious dish of beans are seasoned with grated coconut -- was cooked last, since we wanted to retain the bright green colour of the beans. Finally, there was Tadka Dal and morrels (a kind of mushroom) with a dry spinach-based stuffing.

For the pulao, we looked at Dindigul in Tamil Nadu which is famed for its rice and its biryani. Carrots, peas, cauliflowerets and potatoes lent colour to the Dindigul Vegetable Pulao, which formed the main dish. It is also spiced with garam masalas, but its flavour is dominated by curry leaves, browned onions and ginger.

We also offered Iddiappams (steamed rice noodles) and Malbari Parathas (crisp, paper-thin Indian bread served hot off the tava); these are again Kerala-based dishes. In honour of the Ambanis, there were dahi vadas, hand squeezed mango ras (juice) and puris. Dessert included Small Rosgollas In Rabdi, Sandesh, Mango Kulfi In Tuille (flour-based cones flavoured with aniseed, filled with kulfi) and Fresh Fruit.

The Ambani home has two dining halls -- one seats 20 people and the other seats 14 -- both of which were used for the Clinton lunch. The former president and Dhirubhai Ambani sat opposite each other. Mukesh was placed to his left and Kokilaben sat on his right.

I must add that President Clinton is a joy to cook for. Clinton ko to sab kuch chalta hai (he enjoys everything). He is a good eater, he appreciates good food and he is open to world cuisine. Would you believe he asked for second helpings of the dahi vada, the Poryal and the morrels. "It was wonderful and so different," he said after the meal. "I did not know a vegetarian meal could be so good."

That night, we served the party and sit-down dinner for 300 guests. The Ball and Crystal Room (at the Taj) was decorated with exquisite lotus flowers. Keeping the white and gold theme in mind, our staff wore specially stitched Jodhpuri jackets and safas. Dinner was served in specially designed, heart-shaped silver plates. Clinton headed a table of 12; his guests included his friends from Citibank, Ratan Tata, Anil and Tina Ambani, Rajshree Aditya Birla and Subhash Goyal of ZEE television. Each table had a special rangoli made of pulses and vegetables.

For this meal, the food was representative of Bombay. The starters for the non-vegetarians included Aam Chutney Ka Jhinga (prawns in raw mango chutney), Pili Mirch Ka Lobster (lobster in yellow capsicum) and Machi Na Farcha (fried pomfret, Parsi style). Vegetarians were offered Candied Batata Wadas, Achari Mushrooms and Aam Chutney Ka Paneer.

The main course was grand indeed. It included Chicken Malwani (chicken cooked, Maharashtrian-style, in a spicy coconut base), Parsi Kid Gosht (white boneless pieces of mutton cooked in cashew nut and coconut gravy) and Bohri Biryani. We always cook this mildly spiced, tender mutton dished on a wood fire to lend it that unique flavour. What makes it look even more appetising is the saffron-coloured rice into which it is layered. The vegetarians had a choice of Dum Subzi (tendli, baby potatoes and brinjals stuffed with various masalas like chana dal, paneer and green chutney, then baked in an onion and tomato gravy) and Tadka Moong Dal With Spinach. The Indian breads basket included small aloo parathas, coriander nans and khasta parathas.

Our piece de resistance was the unique Khaas Kulfi dessert -- a sponge cake stuffed with black jamuns, finely cut mangoes, rosgollas and kulfi, coated it with meringue.

Clinton appreciated our effort, "I have really enjoyed your wonderful food." It was the best compliment he could ever give us.

Hemant Oberoi spoke to Senior Editor Sheela Bhatt.

Design: Dominic Xavier

The Rediff Specials

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