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Camping at the Diwan's Kothi, known as the Katha Mill Guest House, in Shivpuri, Yashodhara Raje follows a back-breaking schedule. The previous night she returned to the Kothi at 2am and began her campaign seven hours later, at 9am.

She covers eight or nine villages each day. There are 250 villages in her constituency; according to her estimate there may only be half-a-dozen villages she will not cover when the campaign ends on November 29.

The roads to many villages are mere dust tracks, sometimes with huge craters. "The Congress government does not cooperate, but I have been able to get some road work done that links several villages," she says.

After a breakfast of toast and eggs, she sets out, surviving on a few gulps of water through the day. She has a quick bite whenever she gets home.

Assisted by a campaign team of four -- two for the city and two for the villages -- she goes through the programme for the following day a day in advance and does not make any prepared speeches.

"Sometimes, I think I have to be a general, allocating work to everyone. See, there are hardly any party flags to be seen. They were meant to be up days ago," she says, waiting on the street to supervise party workers with the flags.

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