J J Valaya was the first designer to hold a solo show in India. India's couture czar, as he is called, is known for combining and experimenting with his clothes.

A month ago, at the India Fashion Week 2003 launch, Valaya was suffering from a bad back. "I came down here [Delhi, where he is based, to Mumbai] because the fashion week is a cause I believe in. I'm one of the founding designers, so I better be here."